Vineyards
VINHA DA BASTARDA: Tourigo (Touriga Nacional do Dão). In the following years will be reconverted to Bastardo (Trousseau) and a collection of "bastard" white varieties, left aside by the modern wine industry, but of great qualitative value and for the preservation of the history of the Dão. 13.656m2 total, year of conversion: 2024 onwards.
Viticulture
“In the 90s studying in Italy, I learned from Gianfranco Soldera, one of the best and most legendary "vinaioli" in the world, that wine is born in the vineyard. This maxim has become a cliché, it is true, but here at Domínio do Açor, we think and materialize this desire for a living vineyard, a vehicle to amplify the voice of the earth without distortions, every day. When we took over the estate, only integrated protection viticulture was practiced there. But we want and can do much more, and little by little, with the technical and passionate work of Luís, João, Miguel and the team, we are converting parcels to biological cultivation and adopting biodynamic practices, seeking new ways of training the vines, of working on soil aeration and nutrition, of stimulating biodiversity. Living soils originate living and mineral wines, and in this way we also do our part for the future of the Dão and the planet”.
RÉGISSEUR, GUILHERME CORRÊA
“After years of relative care to preserve the plants, the soil and the life in it, we were faced with a medium/long term work to recover and preserve all the biodiversity lost. To do so, we’ve been gradually changing the pruning system from Cordon Royat to Guyot-Poussard, following some biodynamic techniques, improving the soil with sowing and organic matter, increasing the life in it, without using herbicides.
In terms of treatments, we will make our complete transition from integrated protection agriculture to organic agriculture till 2024, attracting auxiliary fauna that will allow us to have a sustainable balance to prolong for many more years the diversity of our vines and thus minimize our environmental impact”.
RESIDENT WINEMAKER-VITICULTURIST, JOÃO COSTA
OLD VINES
Domínio do Açor has a fabulous heritage of 60-year-old vines, approximately 11 thousand m2 planted in field blend. We rely on the invaluable work of Mr Manuel Domingos, one of Portugal's last remaining varietal classifiers, to go through our vineyards and identify the varieties, plant by plant. This will enable us to invest in the coming years in the excellent management of this living museum, and in replanting the gaps with the same old genetic material and varieties that made the great Dão wines in the past. Among so many grape varieties, the main ones identified by Mr Manuel were: Alfrocheiro, Jaen, Tourigo (Touriga Nacional do Dão), Tinta Pinheira, Baga, Tinta Roriz, Negro Mouro (Camarate or Castelão Nacional), Castelão Francês, Encruzado, Cerceal, Arinto Gordo (Tamarez), etc.
Grape Varieties
Touriga Nacional
3rd most planted variety in Portugal, with 13 544 ha (IVV, 2022). It has been cited since the 17th century in Portugal and since the 18th century in Dão, where it originated, proven by the greater morphological diversity in the region. It is widely regarded as the best red grape variety in the country, and recently it was even approved in the Bordeaux vineyard in France. It has small bunches, with thick-skinned grapes, a medium ripening period and low productivity per plant. Touriga Nacional wines are deep purple or ruby in colour, with remarkable consistency. On the nose, due to the high concentration of free terpenes, Touriga Nacional stands out for its incredible floral display, ranging from roses to violets to citrus and rock-rose (Cistus ladanifer) flowers. Black berries sustain the core of the variety's sweet aromas, with blackberries and sloes (Prunus insititia) standing out. The bushy call of the rockrose can still be complemented by notes of rosemary and foliage, enhancing the formidable complexity of these wines. Portentous on the palate, it displays a fabulous concentration of elements. Generous in alcohol, it has a contrasting dryness in the mouth conferred by incisive tannins, which mainly attack the gums. Acidity at medium-high levels. Great ageing ability. Our Touriga Nacional in Domínio do Açor is made up of old clones of Tourigo from the Dão region, exquisite in their complexity and much more telluric than the modern clones spread around the country in recent decades.
Alfrocheiro
Only 1,326 ha planted in Portugal (IVV, 2018). As it presents little morphological variation, it is believed to be a relatively young grape variety, which gained ground in the Dão after phylloxera. However, more recent DNA tests have revealed that there is some kinship of Alfrocheiro with several Iberian grape varieties (Cornifesto, Malvasia Preta, Camarate, Castelão, Prieto Picudo, etc.) and even with the French Trousseau, which would explain its name Tinta Francesa in Viseu. It buds and matures early, is productive, but the bunches are small and compact, with small grapes and thin skin. Immense potential for quality in the wines of Domínio do Açor, with medium intensity colour, spicy and spicy aromas, with a lot of red (and black) berry fruit impression, strawberry in particular, and a characteristic floral-herbaceous, like that found in geranium. The mouth is always lively and stimulating, with excellent acidity and fine tannins that attack the tongue, as in Syrah. It carries very well the granite minerality of the Dão.
Tinta Pinheira
Planted area of 2.878 ha in Portugal (IVV, 2022). Tinta Pinheira or Rufete is entirely concentrated in Beira Interior its planting area, with some presence in Dão and also in Douro, where it was abandoned by the Port industry for its difficult and extremely late ripening, and mainly for the little colour of the wines. Could the Rufete variety, with the similarities we find in the glass with Pinot Noir or Gamay, have been brought to the Sierra de Francia in Spain and to the neighbouring Beira Interior in Portugal by Raimundo de Borgonha in the 11th century or so many other immigrants from that French region, fatally linked to viticulture in their homeland? Recent DNA tests only reveal that the grape is very old and linked to several other varieties both in Spain (Prieto Picudo) and Portugal (Touriga Nacional). Medium bunches and large berries, very high productivity, very low potential alcohol, excellent acidity. In Domínio do Açor it is one of the grape varieties with the greatest potential. It matures to perfection and delivers wines bursting with vibrant red fruit, balsamic herbs, spices, lots of granite minerality, a fluid, tense body and firm tannins perceived above all in the tongue and in the roof of the mouth, like Pinot Noir.
Encruzado
Despite the growing prestige of Encruzado, arguably one of Portugal's best white grape varieties, its planted area in the country is only 300 ha, mainly in Dão, where it originated. The variety is relatively vigorous, early to mid ripening, has small bunches with medium-sized, slightly flattened berries. The tendrils that develop on the internodes above the middle third give the variety its name (encruzado = criss-cross). It is inevitable to compare the great barrel-fermented whites from Encruzado with the fabulous whites from Burgundy, especially in terms of texture, sophistication and ageing capacity. Although the typical aromas of the noble Portuguese grape variety, characterised by hints of green pepper and Capsicum pepper, a floral of roses, violets and yellow flowers, as well as a side of pine resin and flint which develops with ageing, make the great Dão Encruzados unique and memorable in its expression. At Domínio do Açor we work with the most exclusive cooperages in the world, so that the wood is very harmonious, only contributing to texturize the wines and enhancing the expression of the grape variety and, above all, of our blessed terroir.
Tinta Roriz
Tinta Roriz or Tempranillo is the most planted grape variety in Portugal, with 20,122 ha (IVV, 2022). Native to Spain, probably Rioja, it could have been brought to Portugal in the 18th century, planted at Quinta de Roriz by Scottish owner Robert Archibald, which would explain its name Tinta Roriz. In the south of Portugal, Aragonez reveals its Hispanic origins. Tinta Roriz matures relatively early, has a high yield and generates structured wines, with "chalky" tannins felt mostly in the cheeks. Acidity is moderate. The great Tempranillo wines are born mainly in limestone soils and high quotas, so we are gradually focusing on other varieties that more naturally reveal the potential of the Dão, here in Domínio do Açor.
Jaen
Jaen or Mencía is the 16th most planted red variety in Portugal, with 3,316 ha (IVV, 2022). Originally from Bierzo in Spain, it is mentioned in the Dão from the end of the 19th century, after phylloxera. The genetic homogeneity in the Dão compared to the great diversity in Spain of Mencía confirms that the variety migrated from there to here, probably brought by pilgrims on the route to Santiago de Compostela. Unlike other grape varieties that are more widespread throughout the country, there is a high concentration of plantings in the Dão, and a little in Beira Interior. Productivity is high in Portugal, the grape variety ripens early, and has medium bunches with medium berries. It generates high alcohol contents and low acidity in general, which is why the best results are in the Dão in Portugal, due to the altitude, freshness of the mountains and granite soils. We reinforce in the Domínio do Açor its vibrancy through a proportion of the use of the stalks in winemaking. Its floral, herbal and spicy aromas are lovely, the fruit in the mouth is velvety, and the tannins are chalky, felt more in the cheeks and somewhat at the front of the palate.
Cerceal
Cerceal-Branco from Dão could be the same grape variety as Cercial from Bairrada or Cercial from Douro, but it should not be confused with Sercial from Madeira, which is known as Esgana Cão on the mainland or Uva Cão in Dão. There are a little over 100 ha planted in Portugal. Medium-sized, compact bunches, with medium-sized berries with a thick, crunchy skin. It ripens late and has medium vigour, the high acidity is its great attribute. We have a spectacular Cerceal vineyard in Domínio do Açor, the Vinha da Ruína, which generates electric wines, without the density of Encruzado or Bical, but very vertical, with green lime and grapefruit aromas, and forest impressions. We confer texture to the wine in used wood, and according to the characteristics of the year, it may be bottled as a "solo" experience or else enter the composition of other wines by "assemblage".
Bical
Bical has a planted area of 1,315 ha in Portugal (IVV 2022), covering mainly the PDOs of Bairrada and Dão, the regions where it is possibly originating. Its inspirational local name in Dão of Borrado das Moscas (= fly droppings) refers to the tiny black spots on the skin when the grapes are ripe. The variety is vigorous, very early ripening and has medium-sized bunches with small berries. It is very sensitive to couloure. In Domínio do Açor we are very attentive to harvesting Bical very early, with a perfect balance between acids and potential alcohol. A big problem in the region, accentuated with global warming, stems from the fact that Bical is harvested together with other white and even red varieties, and thus loses its nerve and beauty. Our Bical from the Celta Vineyard leans much more towards citrus than towards tropical fruit, has the strength and verve to go through wood (always used), and with time is reminiscent of a great granite Riesling or Chenin Blanc.
